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Saint-Louis du Nord: A gem of history, culture and natural wealth in Haiti’s undervalued northwest

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Saint-Louis du Nord: A gem of history, culture and natural wealth in Haiti’s undervalued northwest
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PORT-DE-PAIX—Nestled along the northern coast of Haiti, opposite the storied Tortuga Island — or Île de la Tortue in French — Saint-Louis du Nord is a paradox of rich historical significance and overlooked potential. Founded by French settlers in 1606, this vibrant community is one of the oldest in the nation, yet it remains largely unappreciated by state authorities.

Saint-Louis du Nord is rich in history, culture, and natural wealth despite being underestimated. This year, as it celebrates its 418th anniversary, the commune invites both locals and visitors to explore its unique offerings—from the bustling patronal festival to its serene, unspoiled beaches.

At the entrance to downtown Saint-Louis du Nord, a small pickup truck serves as public transportation for residents traveling from the city to Port-de-Paix. Part of this 8-mile route has become an improvised market, with merchants displaying their products along the roadside on September 7, 2024. Photo by Kervenson Martial/The Haitian Times.

With its six communal sections—Rivière-des-Nègres, Derouvray, Desgranges, Rivière-des-Barres, Bonneau, and Lafague or Chamoise—Saint-Louis du Nord has a population of about 150, 000 people, making it the third most densely populated commune in the northwest, after Port-de-Paix and Jean-Rabel, which are in first and second place, respectively.

Like other municipalities in Haiti, Saint-Louis du Nord celebrates its annual patronal festival–Fèt Chanpèt—Saint-Louis King of France, on Aug. 25. This vibrant celebration follows Saint-Anne, which is celebrated on July 26 in Anse-à-Foleur, about eight miles west.

Historical importance

The region was initially named Petit Saint-Louis (Little Saint-Louis in English) in honor of French King Louis XIV. After Haiti’s independence from France, its name was changed to Saint-Louis du Nord.

Yet, Saint-Louis du Nord has historically been a tapestry of grit, perseverance, and innovation. The region served as a strategic hub during the buccaneering era, with remnants like the residence of the first French Saint-Domingue Governor Bertrand d’Orgeron still whispering tales of its colonial past. Remnants of D’Orgeron’s residence near Bonneau and the first Colonial Bank in Forges remain as two of the colonial French’s fingerprints on Haiti.

Initially, the area was a small French pirate community settled on Tortuga Island that served as a strategic base for attacks on Spanish ships carrying valuable cargo back to Europe. After several years of piracy, d’Orgeron took the initiative to stabilize and organize the area, a pillar in the foundation of Saint-Domingue, France’s share of the island.

The commune also played a critical role during the Haitian struggle for independence, with its rivers silently witnessing the tumultuous period. The freedom fighters used the massive rivers—Rivière-des-Nègres, Rivière-des-Barres, and Rivière Lakay—to sabotage their oppressors, poisoning water sources and disposing of tyrants in the rivers during floods.

Natural landscape and cultural identity

Geographically, the commune is a marvel of nature, characterized by its mountainous terrains and coastal vistas at the end of the Massif du Nord and across the Canal de la Tortue. Eco-conscious travelers can find solace in its pristine beaches and lush landscapes, which have remained untouched by industrialization—a rarity in today’s world.

View taken from the city’s heights shows the northern coastal part of the Atlantic Ocean, the area of Saint-Louis du Nord opposite Tortuga Island or Île de la Tortue on September 7, 2024. Photo by Kervenson Martial/The Haitian Times

The commune covers about 50 square miles, with 61% suburban, 37% rural, and 2% urban land. It borders Anse-à-Foleur to the east, Port-de-Paix to the west, North Department’s Borgne to the southeast, Artibonite’s Gros-Morne to the south, and Bassin-Bleu to the southwest.

Saint-Louis du Nord features two distinct climate patterns and heavy rainfall, setting it apart from the lower northwest communes. Deemed the wettest municipality in the department, it receives about 2,000 mm (80 inches) of rain annually, compared to 600 mm (25 inches) in the lower part of the region.

The area’s northeast trade winds, blocked by high peaks, cause frequent downpours. This results in a positive water balance, with significant soil moisture supporting rain-fed agriculture in the lowlands, reducing the need for an organized irrigation system. 

Unlike the rest of the country, the rainy season lasts from November to March due to specific wind patterns and terrain. However, rainfall variability can cause flooding, particularly along the coast and urban areas. From July to October, the hurricane season poses risks of strong winds and coastal flooding, often affecting agricultural cultivation.

Yet, the true heart of Saint-Louis du Nord lies in its people and their traditions. The population, a blend of Afro-Haitians and indigenous Taíno descendants, enriches the commune with vibrant music, dance, and the practices of Vodou and Christian religions. Annual festivals and ceremonies not only celebrate this cultural diversity but also offer an authentic glimpse into Haiti’s spiritual heritage.

Vodou, a syncretic religion that blends African, Catholic, and indigenous beliefs, is deeply rooted in the culture of Saint Louis du Nord. The city hosts vibrant Vodou ceremonies and rituals, offering visitors a unique spiritual experience.

The Catholic Church of Saint-Louis du Nord, or Cathedral of Saint-Louis du Nord, near Place Dame, where Catholics celebrate their patron saint, Saint Louis King of France, every August 25. Photo by Kervenson Martial/The Haitian Times

The commune also boasts several natural and historical attractions, such as Roche Ronde, the Forges ruins, and Cap Rouge Beach. 

The region has at least 15 major waterfalls, over 35 forts or historical landmarks, seven pilgrimage sites, and 10 mythical, mystical, and spiritual locations, including the famous La Vil Okan or Ville au Camps in French, also known as the ‘Mecca of  Haiti.’ It is considered one of the country’s most ‘mystical or mythical’ places, symbolizing the link between Haiti and its African roots. 

The entrance to the La Vil Okann pilgrim site in Saint-Louis du Nord, located in Nan Sitwon, Creole for Lime Region. La Vil Okan is considered by many as the most extraordinary and mystical place in the Caribbean. Saint-Louis du Nord, September 7, 2024. Photo by Kervenson Martial/The Haitian Times

Other significant sites people visit include Nan Tante, Twou Demand in the La Perrière locality, Vye Chouk, Dete Sapotin, Zinga and Nan Pika, Corail Guichard, and Pye Mapou.

However, the potential of these tourist sites is underestimated mainly because they currently need to be explored and are often unknown even to residents. Many of them are anarchically occupied and deteriorating due to a lack of management support from the authorities and awareness among locals about the rich history associated with them. 

Local communities in the hills are not prepared to receive tourists, lacking proper trails, accommodation, catering, and information centers. Notably, the caves are located in the 4th section in Mapou, Modès, and Jean-Clair, which have no paved roads connected to the city center.

Agriculture is one of the economic pillars

Economically, Saint-Louis du Nord is known as the ‘granary of Haiti’s northwest,’ thanks to its fertile lands producing a bounty of crops, particularly plantains, yams, breadfruit or lam veritab in Creole, bananas, corn, beans, yuca, sugar cane, fruits, and vegetables of all kinds. Although reliable data is unavailable, many recount how the area used to be a powerhouse in coffee and cocoa exports. However, they say that in recent years, there has been a considerable decline.  

A view of vegetation and gardens near Rivière-des-Barres on the hilly side of Saint-Louis du Nord, on September 7, 2024. Photo by Kervenson Martial/The Haitian Times

Some local initiatives, supported by external institutions, such as the Archdiocese of Miami, which has a large Haitian diaspora, aim to rejuvenate production in these sectors.

“Not too long ago, Saint-Louis was one of the largest producers of coffee and cocoa in the region,” said Johny Adelson Cérisier, dean and professor at the Université Le Refuge de Saint-Louis du Nord, one of the private colleges in the city. “Every Saturday and Wednesday, over a dozen trucks would leave the city with several tons of these products for export to other countries. We have lost our prominence in recent years, but the potential remains intact.”

“We can’t leave our destiny up to the central government of Haiti, which has failed us, Cérisier told The Haitian Times during the city’s festival, calling for unity to facelift the town. “All the children of Saint-Louis du Nord, whether in the country or abroad, need to come together to contribute with our means to develop Saint-Louis because it is ours.”

People starting to gather at the public market by Rivière-des-Barres in Saint-Louis du Nord before being dispersed by heavy rains on Saturday, September 7, 2024. Photo by Kervenson Martial/The Haitian Times

Artisans in the region play a significant role in the local economy through their exquisite pottery, basketry, and wood carvings, which attract those who appreciate handcrafted artistry.

Despite the area’s largely fertile land, most people practice subsistence farming to meet daily family needs and potentially accumulate a small amount of capital. This is partly due to a lack of reliable infrastructure and organizational systems in the agricultural sector. 

The region is also known for its livestock and fisheries production.

Export of goods is particularly facilitated through Port-de-Paix, Gonaïves, Cap-Haïtien, and Ouanaminthe, as the port of Saint-Louis du Nord is not open to foreign trade. 

People display their products in front of their houses on the sidewalk of the city’s main road, Grande Rue of Saint-Louis du Nord, on September 7, 2024. Photo by Kervenson Martial /The Haitian Times.

Many farmers join grassroots organizations in medium-scale agricultural production to ease individual burdens. For instance, the Gaspard Peasant Organization and the Berger Peasant Association for Development are two of the most active groups in the region. 

These farmers’ associations are part of larger networks like Tèt Kole Ti Peyizan and Mouvmam Peyizan Nasyonal Kongrè Papaye (MPNKP). They also benefit from collaborations with foreign entities. For example, the Cooperative of Coffee-Cocoa of the Northwest (COCANO) receives support from Catholic Relief Services (CRS), the Florida-based foundation of St. Thomas University, and the Archdiocese of Miami in coffee and cocoa production and exports.

The state of infrastructure and education

Despite many challenges, the city has a range of infrastructure, including transport, education, health, and public services. One of the largest hospitals in the commune is the Austrian Hospital. The town also features the Saint Louis King of France Catholic Church or the Cathedral of Saint-Louis du Nord, a municipal palace, a police station, a soccer stadium called Parc Nelson Petit-Frère, several discotheques, and hotels. 

Residents of the commune currently rely on various energy sources due to the complete absence of the public energy company, Electricity of Haiti (EDH). Those who can afford it install inverters and solar energy systems in their homes. Community projects have lightened the town with street lamps powered by solar energy.

In terms of water, the municipality has at least 378 springs, of which one-fifth (77) are tapped. These springs are mainly located in elevated areas, particularly where the most robust water flows abound and the vegetation cover is particularly dense. 

Additionally to the many springs, Saint-Louis du Nord has three large rivers, including Rivière-des-Barres, Rivière-des-Nègres, and Rivières Lakay.

Partial view of Rivière-des-Barres and part of the landscapes of the Balatier in the third communal section of Saint-Louis du Nord on September 7, 2024. Photo by Kervenson Martial/The Haitian Times

Completing the bridge over the Rivière-des-Barres between 2020 and 2021 is one of the most significant government infrastructure projects in the commune in recent years. This project, undertaken during the tenure of the late President Jovenel Moïse, has been pivotal in facilitating the region’s connectivity and accessibility.

Before the bridge’s construction, several neighboring communities, such as Anse-à-Foleur and those on the east/northeast side of Saint-Louis du Nord, faced isolation during the rainy seasons due to the river’s overflow. The new bridge has alleviated these challenges, providing a reliable passage for residents and facilitating economic activities previously hindered by seasonal flooding.

A partial view of an open market under the newly built bridge over Rivière-des-Barres operates every Saturday and Wednesday without infrastructure. However, this market represents the commune’s most significant economic activity center and brings thousands of buyers and sellers together. Saint-Louis du Nord, September 7, 2024. Photo by Kervenson Martial/The Haitian Times

Regarding communications, access to mobile networks has increased since Digicel arrived in 2006 and Natcom in 2011. At least 75% of the local population has access to a mobile phone, according to the latest data from Haiti’s regulator, the National Council of Telecommunications (CONATEL).

In education, Saint-Louis du Nord is home to three inspection offices representing the Ministry of National Education, Youth and Sports, and Civic Action (MJSAC). Most schools, 60%, are based in the central area. 

According to Ministry of Education representatives, the town has 88 preschools, 19 primary schools, and 13 high schools. Two high schools—Lycée La Mennais and Lycée Serge Petit Frère—are public. Private schools represent 88% of all schools in the municipality. 

Additionally, for higher education, two private colleges, Université Saint-Louis du Nord (USLN) and Université Le Refuge (ULR), opened in 2019 and 2023, respectively, offering various programs to help students in the area continue their studies beyond high school.

Moving forward despite challenges

Despite these riches, infrastructure challenges persist. The commune relies on alternative energy sources due to a lack of consistent electricity, and many historical sites remain underexplored—their stories fading away with time.

Yet, the spirit of Saint-Louis du Nord’s residents shines through. Known for their warm hospitality, they welcome visitors with open arms, eager to share the beauty and heritage of their hometown.

In a nation often defined by its struggles, Saint-Louis du Nord stands as a testament to Haiti’s enduring culture and potential. As it steps into its next chapter, the commune beckons those willing to discover a slice of history and a vibrant lifestyle waiting to be celebrated.

The post Saint-Louis du Nord: A gem of history, culture and natural wealth in Haiti’s undervalued northwest appeared first on The Haitian Times.


Saint-Louis du Nord: A gem of history, culture and natural wealth in Haiti’s undervalued northwest was first posted on September 9, 2024 at 10:51 am.

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