BOMBARDOPOLIS, Haiti — On a plateau overlooking the crystal-blue waters of the North Atlantic, Bombardopolis stands as a serene and historic community in Haiti’s northwest. As they survey the commune’s stunning landscapes and vibrant traditions, local leaders and residents often repeat a long-held wish: that this hidden gem transforms into the economic hub of tourism, agriculture, mining, trade and other sectors they know it has the potential to become.
If only, they lament, the Haitian government, civil society and the commune’s vast diaspora might collaborate to achieve meaningful infrastructure development projects, particularly in the transport, communications and energy sectors.
“Accessibility remains a major obstacle,” Mayor Désilien Desliens told The Haitian Times late last year during the commune’s Patronal Feast. “Despite some improvements in recent years, the unreliability of transport infrastructure and communications system continues to hold back Bombardopolis’ socio-economic development.”
Abel Jean-Baptiste, a long-time reforestation and agricultural technician in Haiti who now lives in Fort Lauderdale, Florida, recently echoed Desliens’ observation.
“Indeed, the region’s isolation poses a significant barrier to its development,” he said.
Bombardopolis is primarily accessible by winding dirt roads that can take up to eight hours to traverse from Port-au-Prince, Haiti’s capital city, about 160 miles south. Sailboats also transport passengers and goods, such as charcoal, seafood and crops, to and from Gonaïves, the Artibonite region’s main city, via the coast.
As is common in many coastal cities throughout Haiti, the lack of reliable port infrastructure and enforcement of maritime travel regulations often jeopardize people’s lives and raises costs for exports and imports, hindering local economic growth. Up until the 1980s, boats were the main mode of transportation for trade between Bombardopolis and regional hubs such as Saint-Marc, La Gonâve, Léogâne and Miragoâne. However, with the advent of trucks and buses, the use of sailboats declined.
Now, with gangs controlling most of National Road #1, a private group has launched charter flights from and to Port-au-Prince for those who can afford the $600 one-way fare, providing a quicker travel option. Although, that, too comes at great risk to safety.
“I flew with them once. The experience was terrifying as that small airplane struggled to rise above the mountains,” said Orinel Joseph, a Miami Beach resident who visited family in 2022 on a small aircraft.
“This is not something I will ever do again,” the 32-year-old insisted.
“Despite some improvements in recent years, the unreliability of transport infrastructure and communications system continues to hold back Bombardopolis’ socio-economic development.”
Désilien Desliens, Interim Mayor of Bombardopolis
In Bombardopolis and abroad, its champions lay out the many opportunities for the commune to rise up — from transportation to construction that can benefit Haiti overall, from farming to excavation of quarries, from traditional art and healing services to support daily life.
Roads and ports for travel by sea
The lack of transportation access poses a significant challenge for the estimated 40,000 residents across the commune’s three sections. Many view the transit deficiency as a major hindrance, smothering the region’s potential for economic growth. They insist that the region’s flat coastal line and proximity to both the Artibonite Department and the Gonâve Gulf are reasons for the government and civil society to address the infrastructure challenges together.
Bombardopolis comprises many points on its long coastline, where one primary port and subsequent smaller piers can be developed from the north to the south. Residents repeatedly single out Anse-Anglais, Anse-Rouge, Anse-à-Rappel, Jean-Macoute, La Saline, La Plate-Forme and Anse-à-Chatte.
A view of Anse-a-Rappel areas from the edge of the Chelmise plateau in Plaine d’Orange, the 3rd communal section of Bombardopolis on October 3, 2024. Photo by Petit Carlens Marc for The Haitian Times
Efforts to develop interior routes and improve seaports to connect rural communities and major cities began to gain momentum during the final days of Jovenel Moïse’s administration but stalled after his 2021 assassination.
With an initial fund of about $2.7 million from the public treasury, the Moïse government had begun improving miles of existing roads, including Mòn Chen—a treacherous route that connects Baie-de-Henne, Bombardopolis and Môle Saint-Nicolas via Gonaïves. It was an unprecedented Ministry of Public Works, Transport, and Communications (MTPTC) project that also included a community engagement component.
Other projects — part of the administration’s broader infrastructure plan that included port constructions, electrical and water supply installations, and beachfront improvements — have also halted.
“It’s heartbreaking to see these great initiatives discontinued,” Waltere Gallion Bien-Aimé, a retired educator, lamented.
“Bombardopolis is too unlucky,” he said. “Unfortunately, not only have the projects stopped earlier but all the materials and equipment provided by the MTPTC have disappeared in the cloud.”
“Imagine us having a reliable port to anchor big ships from everywhere! Transport would be alleviated, the agriculture sector would benefit greatly, and eco-tourism would be booming…”
Bency Davilus, commercial sailor
“Imagine us having a reliable port to anchor big ships from everywhere,” exclaimed Bency Davilus, a former captain and sailboat owner from Jean-Macoute. Before moving to the U.S., he used to transport goods and passengers on his boat between Bombardopolis and Gonaives.
“Transport would be alleviated, the agriculture sector would benefit greatly, and eco-tourism would be booming, not just in Bombardopolis but in Haiti northwest as a whole,” said Davilus, 41, who now lives in Indiana.
Crops, water sources to grow local economy
Bombardopolis natives like Davilus recounted how the lack of reliable transportation and modern infrastructure continues to affect fisheries and the agriculture sectors, which are so vital to the region’s economy.
“The local economy relies heavily on small-scale farming, livestock and fishing,” Davilus said. “But most of our production is often wasted due to inefficient transportation and inadequate preservation systems.”
Crops like cassava, beans, sorghum, yams, banana, plantain, corn, peanuts, coffee and sugarcane thrive due to the availability of fertile land and abundant coastal resources on the plateau. The region also grows various tropical fruits and vegetables. However, although no specific data is available, farmers said that agriculture has declined since the 1980s due mainly to unpredictable rainfall and accelerated deforestation.
A view of verdant Baptiste Valley in Plaine d’Orange, Bombardopolis, on October 3, 2024. Photo by Petit Carlens Marc for The Haitian Times.
To create more capacity, underground water that is abundant in Bombardopolis, is a significant concern, especially during the dry season. The municipality has at least 23 water sources, but only 12 are currently in use.
“Artesian well is a solution,” reforestation and agricultural technician Jean-Baptiste said. “But, due to the height of the plateau, special equipment is needed to dig down and bring sufficient water flow up.”
Jean-Baptiste proposes creating artificial lakes in several areas to capitalize on seasonal rainfall. “Water from those lakes can be utilized for household needs and agricultural irrigation,” he suggested.
Minerals essential in construction
Among the mineral resources in the commune are numerous private sand and limestone quarries. The most abundant sites operating within the region are found in Nan Ravin, Rochefort, Brava, Bois-Neuf, Boudrier, Morne Christ, Floxy, Crève, Des Moulins, Clenette, Pélissier, Verné, Chili, Citerne, Camp Blaise, Vital, Jacobaille, Baptiste Borne, Chilotte, Chelmise, Faltine, Faligan and Fonds Jacques. Sand, in particular, is highly valued as a construction material throughout the commune.
Geological surveys have also uncovered a travertine, a type of limestone with small crystals that can be polished into marble, in the Rondineau, La Plate-Forme, area. Haiti’s Office of Mines and Energy (BME) estimates there may be around 300,000 tons of bauxite deposits in numerous areas with reddish-brown soil.
Municipal authorities are aware of these resources, yet the quarries continue to be excavated without proper oversight. Residents uncontrollably exploit them mainly for construction purposes.
One bright spot is the recent investments by the dynamic and large diaspora from the U.S., which have created construction jobs. New homes and hospitality infrastructure has reshaped communities in all three communal sections and the town center.
A private home in Crève, a semi-urban area on the third communal section, Plaine d’Orange. The home is due in no small part to funding from its diaspora in the United States. Photo by Petit Samuel Elcier for The Haitian Times.
Another house under construction in Crève, 3rd communal section, Bombardopolis. Photo by Petit Samuel Elcier for The Haitian Times
Arts and crafts dormant, but promising
Many Bombardopolitans are talented artisans and handcraft producers. They create jewelry, clothing, metal art, hand woven textiles and sewn items, paintings and wooden art, flags, home decor, painted ceramics, gourmet food products, baskets, sacks and bags, decorated paper and leather goods.
Between the 1970s and 1980s, craftsmanship flourished in Bombardopolis as non-governmental organizations (NGOs) such as HACHO and CARE International, North American protestant missionaries and the Catholic Church arrived there. These groups secured orders from international customers and provided training to artisans, which supported that sector’s growth.
Today, artisans produce much less as orders have declined. Foreign-based groups present in decades past did not leave customer contacts once they after the 1980s and artisans no longer participate in national events like the Craft Fair or Binational Fair. As a result, the Craft Center of Bombardopolis (CAB), which serves as a hub, mostly manages bulk orders for clients in Port-au-Prince.
Nevertheless, the expertise acquired by these artisans presents a promising opportunity for generating significant income, especially given neighboring Môle Saint-Nicolas’ efforts to boost tourism in the region.
Services to support everyday life that can also help generate revenue
An array of cultural events and essential services have the capacity to generate some income, some say, but the infrastructure is inadequate. Challenges abound. Electricity, for example, is available only in part of the town center through private means, so most businesses, churches and some residents have to install their own generators or solar panel systems to enjoy activities.
Soccer fans gather around the field near the town center in Bombardopolis during a game. Photo courtesy John S. Octave.
Office of electricity service provider, Sigora Haiti. Bombardopolis. Oct. 4, 2024. Photo by Petit Carlens Marc for The Haitian Times
Local churches, mainly Protestant congregations supported by missionaries from the U.S., play a significant role in community life. Bombardopolis’ annual patronal feast day, October 4, is in honor of Saint Francis of Assisi.
The municipality also upholds the traditional culture tied to Vodou, serving as a significant intangible heritage.
Saint Francis of Assisi Catholic church filled with parishioners and town visitors celebrating Saint François d’Assise, or Saint Francis of Assisi, on October 4, 2024. Photo by Petit Carlens Marc for The Haitian Times
In education, there are numerous public schools throughout the municipality. However, due to poor management of the education system by the government, many people lack confidence in public schools. Most schools in the area are privately operated and primarily established by faith-based organizations.
In terms of technical schools, there are several private initiatives. Missionary institutions and the Fombrun Professional School teach different vocational trades.
For health services, the commune’s Evangelical Hospital of Bombardopolis (HEB) provides vital services, including radiology, basic surgery and infectious disease prevention. Since 2008, it has experienced a considerable rise in patient visits, reaching nearly 9,000 consultations annually.
Traditional healers and midwives also provide services, operating independently from the modern healthcare system. The town is also known for its Vodou healers, most commonly known as hougans, who attract many non-residents seeking treatments.
Since 2015, Bombardopolis has experienced an improvement in internet accessibility, with Digicel and Natcom being the two leading providers. Starlink, owned by American billionaire and tech mogul Elon Musk, recently joined the competition in the area through third-party vendors.
Despite these networks, the coastal area still lacks telephone communication access, forcing residents to walk up to 40 minutes to find signals and make emergency calls.
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