Ouanaminthe’s Christmas market: a lifeline for struggling vendors and artisans

OUANAMINTHE, Haiti— On a stretch of unpaved road just off the town square of Ouanaminthe, amid the bustling markets Judeline Jean-Louis, a toy seller, lovingly arranges an assortment of colorful toys—from dolls to miniature cars. As Christmas or Nwèl in Creole approaches, the quiet northeastern city of Ouanaminthe transforms into a vibrant hub of color and commerce. Here, the Christmas season is more than a festive occasion – it is a critical lifeline for struggling families and businesses.

Amid rising inflation, unstable transportation, and frequent power outages, vendors like toy seller Jean-Louis and artisans such as liqueur maker Rodacheca Marcellus rely on the holiday rush to sustain their livelihoods. These local traditions, from bustling markets to midnight masses, embody a fragile yet resilient spirit of joy and solidarity, offering a glimpse into how Haitians preserve their culture and community despite ongoing economic and social challenges.

“The true spirit of Christmas is about giving, sharing what you have, loving your friends, loved ones, and even your enemies, creating unforgettable memories with your loved ones and friends,” says Rose Marth Farlie Maurice, a young student in Fort-Liberté, who is eagerly preparing for Christmas in her family home.

In major cities like Ouanaminthe and Fort-Liberté and across Haiti, where inflation, a weakening gourde, and failing transportation systems test daily survival, the holiday season offers a rare hope. Vendors, defying economic struggles and government-imposed curfews, embrace the end of the year as a chance to recover lost income. Streets come alive with festive decorations, the crackle of firecrackers, and the calls of street vendors, transforming Nwèl into more than a celebration—it’s a critical lifeline for families and the local economy.

A season of survival and celebration: the resilience of local artisans 

At a corner across the square, Jean-Louis, 34, a mother of four, greets children and families at her small vendor stand. Her stand overflows with colorful goods, from toys to ornaments, each item carefully placed. 

“It’s the most wonderful time of the year!” she said. “I love seeing children’s eyes light up when they pick out their toys.” For her, each sale brings more than profit—it provides a sense of hope for her children’s future.  The funds from her sales will help finance their schooling and keep their Nwèl is bright. 

She has perfected her strategy for this time of year. She put small price tags with tempting offers that encourage children, armed with a few gourdes, to try their luck at winning a more expensive toy. This formula keeps her toy stand busy, especially during the holiday shopping rush. As parents look to please their children, Jean-Louis knows this is her opportunity to make the most of the season.

While toy vendors like Jean-Louis’s fuel the spirit of children, artisans contribute to the joy spirit and the economy in ways that go beyond simple sales. 

Among these artisans is Rodacheca Marcellus, a determined 20-year-old who has transformed her liquor passion into a business. Her creations are made from local fruits and vegetables, highlighting the rich culinary heritage of the region. 

“We make different types of liqueurs—grenadine, okra known as kalalou, passion fruit or grenadia, and more.,” she explains. 

Like many others, Marcellus sees Christmas as an opportunity to increase her sales. “It’s a time to boost my income, to offer products that reflect the holidays, and to give my family a better future,” she says. 

“The holidays are our busiest time. People want something special to share with family and friends,” she says. Marcellus’s liqueurs not only sustain her family but preserve traditional flavors unique to Haitian celebrations.

Sounds, Smells, and the spirit of Nwèl

In Haiti, the highlight of the celebration of Christmas, known as Nwèl in Creole, is Christmas Eve on Dec. 24, when families and friends gather for festive meals, caroling, and late-night revelry. Midnight Mass and “réveillon” meals—celebratory breakfasts that last until dawn—mark the evening. During this time, children enjoy playing with handmade fireworks or sipping anisette, a sweetened rum drink.  December 25th is a quieter day dedicated to relaxation, enjoying food, and exchanging gifts. 

Walking through Ouanaminthe’s main square, vendors call out prices with singsong voices, their Creole carrying through the air. Mothers hold small hands as they navigate rows of vendors hawking handmade goods and toys. Artisans work to meet the demand for holiday goods, and local nightclubs add to the atmosphere with music and lights—each playing a part in the collective effort to embrace the joy of the season. The celebration extends beyond commerce, with the church serving as a spiritual anchor and a youth group creating moments of solidarity through acts of generosity.

The struggle against power outages is a daily reality, yet the lack of electricity has not diminished the Christmas spirit. Despite widespread power outages affecting most cities in the northeast, shopkeepers are stringing garlands and hanging colorful ornaments in their windows, with their shops illuminated by candles or solar lanterns. This glow is vibrant, transforming the darkest streets into pockets of light.

Across the town square at Canarie Plaza, a bustling local nightclub, the vibrant rhythms of konpa and the glow of twinkling lights beckon visitors and partygoers from all corners of Ouanaminthe. Recognizing the season’s importance, the manager goes above and beyond to craft an inviting and festive atmosphere for all.

“People come to see the decorations,” said Phaïka Angela Belony, marketing manager for Canarie Plaza, a popular gathering spot in nearby Ouanaminthe.

“By decorating the nightclub, we wanted to create a space where everyone can meet and share the joy of Christmas,” says Belony, reflecting on the importance of the season. “We are aware that the holidays are not necessarily synonymous with happiness for everyone, but we hope this initiative will allow a few moments of magic to spread.”

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