The sounds and sights of Gonaïve’s Vodou festival captivates audiences, challenges stereotypes and fosters resilience

GONAIVES, Haiti — In the midst of gang violence impacting daily life and Vodou practitioners being acused of aligning with criminal gangs, the second annual vodou festival in Gonaives brings joy, ceremony, music, and a clear mission to redefine Haitian Vodou’s image on a global stage. This year’s festival theme centers on highlighting and celebrating Haitian Vodou’s cultural heritage and countering longstanding stereotypes.

“Participating in this festival is, for the most part, a great opportunity to meet other people, to bring satisfaction and joy,” said Manoucheka Jean Marie, reminiscing about his time at the Festival which started in October and will continue every weekend until Jan. 6, 2025. 

“We are reclaiming Vodou as a source of unity for Haitians,” said Emmanuelle Occeus, a spokesperson for Coumbite for the Advancement of Vodou in the Artibonite (CAVA).

“It’s about breaking down the stereotypes that have stigmatized our faith.”

This year’s festival hosted 16 Vodou groups from across the Artibonite region. Each introduces its ritual performances to celebrate the symbolism of the religion in Haitian heritage and counter long-standing misunderstandings about its practices. For the organizers, this festival is not merely a religious event but a cultural statement.

“Vodou is a cultural and spiritual bond that goes back to our ancestors and the fight for freedom,” Occeus said. 

For some, the festival is also just a great time to center themselves in their values and intentions, while connecting deeper with their spirituality. 

“Vodou helps you overcome problems that block your financial success and participating enhances spirituality to do good,” said Édouard Faustima, a woman who attended the festival in October. 

In ‘Lakou Bigot’ where the festival kicked off on Oct. 12, each weekend, fans and vodou practitioners gather and the energy is electric and alive. Each group—led by their presidents and surrounded by a crowd of passionate fans—arrives in a flurry of drumming and ritual. Musicians beat the big Nago drums, filling the air with deep, reverberating rhythms that blend with unique acapella voices and chants. 

On a recent Saturday, some participants were seen wearing brilliant, multi-colored karabela robes, loose and flowing, other priests and priestesses of the ceremonies are adorned in striking blue and red—a nod to the powerful spirits they invoke. 

Under the warm, glowing lights and rows of candles, women and men enact a series of traditional Vodou rituals, from the well-known Ti Josselin dances to the fierce petro and the celebratory banda. Before stepping onto the center stage, they prepare by sprinkling water across the ground, lighting candles, and illuminating the space with vivid, spiritual energy. 

With each performance, houngan, mambos and ouansies practitioners were drawn further into their world, where the rhythmic beat, the flickering candle flames, and the swish of vibrant fabrics merge into a celebration of life and spirit. The sights and sounds in Lakou Bigot become a living tableau of beautiful red and blue, Haiti’s spiritual legacy, captivating all who gather in this historic heart of the Artibonite region.

Misunderstandings and challenges

Vodou’s impact on Haitian identity and independence is profound, tracing back to the days of colonialism and revolution. Rituals often invoke the spirits of ancestors who resisted slavery, with participants calling upon their legacy of resilience. 

The city of Gonaïves is home to the three historically sacred Vodou sites called Lakou. They are not just physical spaces—they are spiritual heritages, representing different vodou spirits with rites and traditions from distinct regions of ancestral Africa.

The festival is taking place amid pointed rebukes against allegations that Vodou practitioners—known as houngans and mambos—have been aligning with criminal gangs to provide mystical “protection.” In the opening remarks, festival organizers pushed back against the recent accusations, insisting that Vodou serves as a shield for the community, not a weapon for violence. 

“We Vodouists cultivate mystical power to protect all beings in this country,” said Kemler Louis, vice president of CAVA.

“Our role is not to support violence but to uphold the traditions that unify and safeguard our communities.”

Attendance this year has suffered, with many locals avoiding the gatherings due to rising insecurity in Gonaïves and other parts of Haiti. Many Vodou practitioners also feel targeted by both gangs and public criticism, with some alleging that houngans and mambos are casting protective spells for gang members—a charge organizers vehemently deny.

“It’s false to say that Vodou is being used to protect those who terrorize us,” argued Choudlet Métayer. “Vodou’s role is to protect the community, not to give criminals a sense of invincibility.”

A force for social stability and unity

For centuries, Vodou has been a source of empowerment for Haitians, especially for the marginalized and oppressed. Now, as Haiti faces one of its most volatile periods, festival organizers argue that Vodou’s values could contribute to social stability and help alleviate the nation’s challenges.

“Vodou has a role to play in Haiti’s future,” said Louis. “Just as it was used to fight for independence, Vodou can still be a force for social and political change if it’s given the respect it deserves.”

The event has had to rely on modest funds due to a lack of government support, highlighting both Vodou’s cultural importance and its struggle for broader societal recognition.

“Our role is not to support violence but to uphold the traditions that unify and safeguard our communities.”

Kemler Louis, vice president of CAVA.

“We conduct this festival with very limited resources,” said Choudlet Métayer, president of CAVA and head of the festival committee. “The authorities don’t offer financial assistance, and we’re left to fund the activities ourselves.”

Even with limited means, the committee has arranged for awards and trophies to honor outstanding performances, bringing a competitive edge to the ceremonies and helping foster community pride.

The Vodou Festival will conclude on January 6, 2025, with a final celebration and awards ceremony for the standout groups. This three-month celebration of Vodou is more than a display of tradition—it is a rallying cry for a culture that has sustained Haitians for generations, now positioned once again to offer strength amid adversity.

The post The sounds and sights of Gonaïve’s Vodou festival captivates audiences, challenges stereotypes and fosters resilience appeared first on The Haitian Times.

---

The sounds and sights of Gonaïve’s Vodou festival captivates audiences, challenges stereotypes and fosters resilience was first posted on November 18, 2024 at 10:30 am.