Hidden in Haiti’s mountains, Vallières pushes for a tourism-fueled revival

VALLIÈRES, Haiti — With its mountain-ringed valley, flowing rivers and fertile lands, Vallières offers more than scenic beauty — it holds untapped promise. Rich in history, natural resources and cultural heritage, this city in northeastern Haiti presents vast opportunities for tourism, agriculture and artisanal growth. Residents and community leaders envision a future where improved infrastructure connects Vallières to regional and national development.

“The condition of the roads is a major obstacle to the economic and tourism development of Vallière,” motorcyclist Jean Girard Joseph said. He makes the daily trip on the chaotic road transporting people from Vallières to Ouanaminthe.

“The biggest obstacle in the commune is road accessibility,” said Dieucel Métellus, a local radio journalist.

According to the Haitian Institute of Statistics and Informatics (IHSI), Vallières is home to approximately 26,000 people. Surrounded by mountainous areas like Mombin-Crochu, Carice and Mont-Organisé, the rugged terrain isolates it from the rest of the Nord-Est department.

Residents dream of bridges, viaducts, and cable cars to better connect Vallières to the Nord and Nord-Est regions. They point to the 10.87-mile road built between Vallières and Mombin-Crochu as proof that such projects are achievable. Before that road, residents had to travel over 85 miles through the Nord Department to reach neighboring communes.

“This road is a revolution for this department,” Fils-Aimé Ignace Saint-Fleur, Director General of BMPAD, said at the 2017 road inauguration.

Natural resources and daily life

Vallières is primarily accessible via winding mountain roads, making the 13-mile trip from Fort-Liberté take up to three hours. The city is crossed by several rivers. The Grande Rivière-du-Nord, which originates in the commune, nourishes the land during dry spells but washes away crops during floods. Rivers like Bolier, Ti Mét and Dlo Sab also pose flood risks while offering irrigation potential.

Deforestation worsens water retention, threatening agricultural sustainability. Yet, pine and annatto trees along roads hint at a longstanding relationship with the land.

Many residents craft jewelry, clothing, bags, and decorative items — work that becomes vital income during patronal festivals and local “champèt” markets.

Electricity in Vallières is limited to a few hours per day. Most rely on generators or solar panels. In 2020, a Natcom relay near Fort Salnave improved internet and phone connectivity. Local radio stations like Radio Tropical 89.9 and Radio St. Vincent 95.5 provide news, farming tips and civic education.

Despite having seven schools — five public and two private — a shortage of teachers and supplies affects the quality of education. The health dispensary lacks surgical resources, sending residents to Fort-Liberté, Cap-Haïtien or Milot for care.

Agriculture at the core

Agriculture remains the primary livelihood in Vallières, but poor roads and lack of refrigeration result in major crop losses.

“The local economy is largely based on agriculture,” said Jacquelin Joseph, a local planter. “But a lot of what we grow is wasted or sold for cheap because we can’t store or move it efficiently.”

Farmers grow coffee, cocoa, mangoes, pineapples, medicinal herbs and achiote. Goods are transported by motorcycle across narrow roads. Reaching Fort-Liberté can take three hours. Donkeys and mules were common until motorcycles largely replaced them in the 2000s.

Markets are small and often informal. Reaching Cap-Haïtien or Port-au-Prince takes up to eight hours and poses safety risks. Jesula Basile, a farmer and administrator of the group Men Kontre Valyè (“Hands Put Together”), advocates for road improvements.

“There are often small improvements on the main road, especially during patronal festivals, but the unreliability of the communications system infrastructure hinders the economic and tourist development of Vallières,” Bazile said.

The cooperative once exported roasted coffee to the U.S. and still serves clients in Port-au-Prince and Fort-Liberté.

“We’re doing our best to continue production,” said Guy-Mary Joseph, who runs the Mouvman Men Kontre Valyè operation.

Small-scale gold mining also supports livelihoods. Gold is sold at about 1,000 gourdes (roughly $8) per 0.017 pound, usually to buyers from nearby towns. Locals see the need for regulation to grow its economic potential.

Cultural and tourism potential

Vallières offers opportunities for eco- and cultural tourism, from artisan markets to scenic rivers. One overlooked treasure is Fort Salnave, perched on Mornes Nicolo and offering sweeping views of northern and central Haiti.

Built between 1867 and 1869 during President Sylvain Salnave’s term, the fort once helped defend the nation against foreign threats. Its elevation offered military advantage, possibly linking it to Citadelle Laferrière.

“It’s a fort steeped in fascinating history, but it’s abandoned by local authorities. A fort that could bring in a lot of money for the community,” said Jacquelin Charles, a tour guide from Grand Don.

With investment in guides and infrastructure, Fort Salnave could anchor tourism in the region. The hike through forest paths and medicinal plants ends in one of the most stunning views in the northeast.

The lack of hotels remains a major barrier to tourism. Improving hospitality services could unlock the area’s potential.

A community with vision

Each Jan. 22, the town celebrates Saint Vincent during its patronal feast. Vodou practices, traditional healing, and herbal medicine remain respected traditions. Artisans like Marguritte Charles sell handmade goods at local festivals.

“The Chaîne of Vallières mountain can become a strong and accessible link in the northeast of Haiti,” said Metellus.

With strategic investment, Vallières could shift from a hidden gem to a key player in Haiti’s development — a place where hills, heritage, and human resilience come together.

Though access to Fort Salnave is still limited by narrow, overgrown paths, residents hope restoration efforts will make it a destination for both locals and international visitors. If supported, the fort could join Haiti’s major historic landmarks and generate new economic opportunities.

“Cultural events are important for generating income,” Charles said, pointing to the value of supporting local artisans and traditions.

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